We headed out about 11am. Lovely wide open water and so blue.
Past Morehead City, we heard the Coast Guard on the radio. They were boarding boats doing safety checks.
Incredible number of boats on the water today. I'm sure it's because it's a beautiful day and it's Saturday.
A tour boat was too far away to figure out what they were doing. Couldn't figure out what everyone was looking at.
As we got closer, I realized most were fishing. Oh what fun.
Didn't look like anything I'd like to do. Too many people in the same place with fish hooks.The chart was kind of confusing after passing the tour boat. We went the wrong way, but it wasn't a bad thing. We ended up in Beaufort, NC. What a quaint little town. We cruised the waterfront one way then turned the boat around and went back again.
Jerry hinted that he wanted to stop. I didn't realize he meant now. I thought he was talking about coming back another time and spending some time here. My bad.Found our way back to the ICW. Had to wait about 15 minutes for a bridge opening.
Read in Skipper Bob to stay in the channel, very shallow on both sides. This guy and his dogs are walking in the water at low tide. The shoaling is really bad here, normally this is under water. A good reason to stay in the channel.After this wide open area, we are back in a ditch with houses on both sides. Our radio comes to life and it's the Coast Guard behind us. They ask the name of our boat since the new dinghy covers up Wind Song and we haven't had a chance to put the decal on. He also asks when the last time was we were boarded. We have never been boarded. He tells us to go to idle speed and keep moving, they will pull along side our boat using their fenders.
Two young men came aboard. I am driving the boat, one stays up top with me and the other goes below with Jerry to check out fire extinguishers and the halon system in the engine room.
They checked our boat documentation. Asked several questions, like where we were going and where we'd been. All was good in the end. We received a print out of the boarding and they were on their way. It only took about 10-15 minutes.I kept the boat at idle throughout. We didn't lose much time at all. Really nice young men. I told one that it would be a great way to research boats. Just pick the boats to board, ask all the questions you want and see all different kinds of boats. Of course he said this was all done randomly. Whatever.
Anchored in Cedar Creek, mile marker 187.5. Storms expected tonight
Sunday, it's rainy today. This is wide open water and we are rockin and rollin. The waves are hitting the boat abeam making the ride rather uncomfortable. We hear a boat calling TowBoatUS at Gum Thicket Shoal not far from where we are. It's Horizon IV. We docked with them at Dudley's Marina a few nights back. Jerry calls to see if we can do anything for them while they wait for the tow. They are fine so we plug onward.
We enter the Neuse River. Even more rough waters. We estimate the waves at 2-3' and again hitting us abeam. I go below to check on things. The doors to the pantry have come open and there are can goods and other food stuff spilled out on the floor. I gather it all up and put it back. The lamp was on the floor having fallen earlier. I left it there since things weren't improving anytime soon.
This is the first time I was nauseous. I suspect I was spending too much time below. The pantry came open again and spilled much of its contents on the floor. We found a broken wine glass in another cabinet after we stopped for the day.
Got into a cut and the water settled down considerably. This didn't last too long and we were back in open water. The Pamlico River was rough too. Rain had let up mostly until we anchored in Pungo Creek. Just as Jerry was going out to drop the anchor, the sky opened up and dumped. We were ready for some downtime by this time.
Monday, we were off about 7:30. Cold morning, only 53F, still a little overcast. We bundled up and headed out. By 10am the sun heated up the bridge so it was much more comfortable. About 25 miles of ditch of our 62 mile day. Uneventful.
However, the day wasn't over. Once we were on the Alligator River, back to rough and choppy water. The wind was really blowing, making the water even worse. It was hitting us abeam and we were rocking side to side. Active Captain suggested South Lake anchorage for better wind protection. Either we didn't get in far enough or we were in the wrong place, because we had wind and waves hitting the boat and rocking us side to side until about 3am. It was a miserable night. Jerry put out a second anchor on the bow with hopes that it would help with the rocking. Maybe a little bit, but not much.
Tuesday, we were off by 6:15am trying to beat the worst of the wind and waves on the dreaded Albermarle Sound. Albemarle Sound is a large estuary on the coast of North Carolina located at the confluence of a group of rivers, including the Chowan and Roanoke. It is separated from the Atlantic Ocean by the Outer Banks, a long barrier peninsula upon which the town of Kitty Hawk is located, at the eastern edge of the sound. Roanoke Island is situated at the southeastern corner of the sound, where it connects to Pamlico Sound. Much of the water in the Albermarle Sound is brackish or fresh, as opposed to the saltwater of the ocean, as a result of river water pouring into the sound.
Albermarle Sound gave us 1-2' waves abeam with occasional 2-3' waves. Another bumpy ride. Fortunately, it only lasted an hour and a half. Our destination, Elizabeth City, NC. They offer a free dock. I read about the wonderful hospitality of Elizabeth City. Legend has it that
when large groups of boats come in Rose Buddies provide roses to the First Mates and they put together wine and cheese get togethers. This started back in the early 80s and continues. I guess there weren't enough boats when we were there, but we were greeted by Gus. And the town offers a wonderful Albermarle Sound museum.
We walked around downtown asking about a place to eat. Surprisingly, not many restaurants were open. Bryan's Hot Dogs was open so we had lunch there. Good lunch and popular with the locals. The folks at the table next to us struck up a conversation. The young man is a pilot for the Coast Guard. They were all interested in our journey. It was fun to share our travels. We walked to the Albermarle Sound Museum and looked at all the exhibits. It's a large place for a relatively small town.
Later we walked to an Ace Hardware and the Visitor's Center. The tricky part of this dockage was getting on and off the boat. We were bow in and the finger pier was too far away to get to so had to climb off the bowsprit.
Dinner was at Groupers, the only restaurant on the water. We happened to go in at the same time as our dock neighbors so we invited them to join us. Dick and Dave, brothers sailing on Peregrine, were delightful. Dick is a retired physicist doing part time work for NASA. His brother Dave retired from Kodak working on optics. Dick and his wife had done three different Atlantic crossings in their sailboat. Fun to hear about their adventures. They were leaving the next morning early to get through the Dismal Swamp. The bridge at Elizabeth City is closed from 7-9am for morning traffic so they were going to leave about 6:45. Really enjoyed the evening.
Wednesday, Jerry was up and waved good by to Dick and Dave. He decided to call the bridge and found out they open on demand until 7:00 so, still in our PJs we untied and took off. The bridge was open when we arrived. We are now in the Dismal Swamp. Sounds ominous. Jerry and I flew over the Dismal Swamp in 1998. We were traveling from DC to Lakeland, FL for Sun and Fun. Flying over it we were thinking, where would we land. From the air, it was thick with trees and swamp land. Neither of us remember seeing this canal. Most likely because it is canopied with trees and very narrow
The canal has historic beginnings. George Washington along with Patrick Henry, the Governor of Virginia at the time, needed the most economical and efficient method to transport the goods from Chesapeake Bay, VA to Albermarle Sound, North Carolina. It was privately funded. Land owners provided slaves to dig the canal by hand. It took 12 years to complete the construction of the 22-mile canal.It is the oldest continually operating man-made canal in the United States, opened in 1805.
There are two locks in the swamp, and they only open at 8:30, 11:00, 1:30 and 3:30. We wanted to make the 11:00 opening but we didn't time our trip well enough. We arrived about 30 minutes prior so had to anchor. Jerry decided to take the dinghy out while we were waiting.
Made it through the lock and to the Dismal Swamp Visitors Center. We tied up to the free dock. Went in to check things out. We walked the trail across the canal in the State Park. There was a sign posted that said "don't feed the ticks". I should have heeded the sign and gone back to get bug spray. Really I didn't think they would be out just yet but...
Back to boat, nice dinner and a little TV before going to bed.
Thursday, we pulled out about 8:00am. We weren't in a big hurry so planned to make the lock opening at 11:00. It's official, we've passed into Virginia.
It was kind of funny. I was in the salon or doing something and Jerry yelled that this sign was coming up. We hadn't brought the camera up to the bridge yet so he didn't think we'd get a picture. I grabbed the camera and raced to the sundeck door, snapped the picture and handed him the camera. He couldn't believe I'd made it in time. I can move if I need to.We didn't plan very well, once again, so didn't realize we'd reach a bridge before the lock. Jerry called the bridge tender. Come to find out, the bridge tender and the lock master are one in the same. If he has southbound traffic, they go into the lock first. He raises them then jumps in his car and drives to the bridge, opens and closes the bridge then jumps in his car and drives back to the lock for the northbound traffic. Robert Peek is the lock master. What an interesting individual. Once we were situated in the lock, he asked us where we were from, where we'd been, etc. Savannah came up in the conversation, he said his wife had him drive 250 miles out of their way to go to the Paula Dean restaurant in Savannah. I asked him if it was worth it and he said the peach cobbler was good. I had some homemade peach cobbler from the night before and gave him a bowl for his lunch. Told him it wasn't Paula Dean but my version.
Robert does guided tours of the Dismal Swamp. He gave us a mini narration of his tour. He knows some stuff. Also, he has a collection of conch shells decorating the lock landscape. I found a youtube of him playing the conch shell. It's almost to the end so you can either listen to the entire clip or fast forward to almost the end. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrMLSUbk2zI
Along with the entertainment, Robert gave us a great info about a free dock in Portsmouth by the ferry landing. And that we should go the to the Commodore Theater. He said it didn't matter what was playing, we should see it just for the experience.
Just a few more miles and we were in for the night. Found diesel for $3.79/gal at Top Rack Marina. And if you ate at the restaurant, slip fee was free. Such a deal.
212 gallons - you do the mathA storm was blowing in so we were glad we were at a marina. It blew but nothing else materialized. We went to dinner at the Amber Lantern. Lovely place for a marina. Food was really good. Oh about those ticks, Jerry found 8 on his legs and torso. I lucked out.
Friday, we had a bridge opening to catch. It only opened on the 1/2 hour so hung around until about 10:15 to make the 10:30 opening. Almost didn't make it. It was a little further than planned but we made it. Actually there were two bridges that needed to open. The first one was supposed to be abandoned and always open but it happened to be closed when we got there. They are building a new railroad bridge. We weren't sure what was going on, but it all worked out.
We still had to wait for the second bridge to open before we could proceed.
Only 8 miles to travel today to get to Portsmouth. Passed big industrial and military areas along this channel.
Found out over the next few days that this is a very active thoroughfare for container ships, barges, ferries and pleasure craft.Walked to lunch at Roger Browns. Great burger and fries. Bought tickets to see Hunger Games at the Commodore Theatre for this evening. Found a Marine Supply store, Mile Marker 0, browsed. Robert, the owner, said if we needed to go anywhere, grocery store, Walmart, laundry, just let him know and he would get us there and back. Also, found a bike shop. My poor bike needed some attention after several months of salt water spray, parts are deteriorating.
While walking along the waterfront, a Naval vessel was being towed out of dry dock.
This is housing on a barge. My understanding is that while working on the naval ship, these barges are towed and docked next to it for the workers.Went to the show. The theater is from the 1940s and has been renovated. The lower level has tables and comfortable chairs. Food is ordered from the phone on the table. Beautiful murals on walls and chandeliers in the corners. There is also a balcony for those that don't want to have anything but regular theater fare.
As we're walking back to the boat, Jerry spies another Carver in the other ferry landing. He waves at the woman on the boat and then we head towards it. Her husband was coming out to get sodas from the cooler on the swim platform. We struck up a conversation and they invited us in. They want to do the loop in a year or so. We shared some of our experiences, exchanged boat cards and went on our way. Such is the life of boating.
Saturday, we walked to the Artisans Bakery for a morning nosh. Wonderful pastries, flaky croissant and lovely monkey bread using croissant dough. Found a farmers market on the way back to the boat.
Mostly baked goods and a couple of fresh vegetable stands. Had a call from Dick and Nancy, Emerald Lady. They are having some work done on their boat. Being from this area, they have a car so offered to take us to Walmart. We took them up on it and then bought them lunch at Panera. Jerry brought along our chart for the upcoming area to pick their brains about marinas and anchorages to stop at along the way. We really enjoy their company.
Just goofed off the rest of the day.
Wind Song is on the right of the picture in front of the sailboat. The ferry is across from us.
The ferry runs every 1/2 hour on the hour from this landing. It goes across the Elizabeth River to Norfolk then back to the other ferry landing before returning here. We weren't bothered at all just a minor wave when it came in. Sunday, we decided to take Robert, Mile Marker 0, up on the offer for a ride to the laundromat. He picked us up, then returned when we were finished. What a service.
Took ferry to Norfolk. Walked around the waterside. The USS Wisconsin is there, we also saw the MacArthur Memorial. Found a mall and walked around inside. Haven't been in a mall for probably 6 months. On the way back to the ferry, met the couple on Last Dance. We were dock neighbors at Thunderbolt Marina. They are heading home. We visited for awhile, catching up. They gave us a couple of places to stop along the way as well.
Wind Song from across the river.
The other ferry landing.When we returned, Jerry remembered we needed a diver to get the line off the prop. He bought some used gear in Atlanta so started checking it out to see if he could jump in to take care of the problem. Not having everything he needed, he opted to call a diver tomorrow. Smart move.
Monday, the winds are not favorable on the Chesapeake and we want to get the prop cleaned up. Found diver but he wouldn't be available until later in the afternoon. Spent the day around the boat.
Remember the barge living quarters I wrote about above, here is one being moved into position. It's huge.We've had issues with the batteries not charging fast enough so the generator has to run for hours at a time if we aren't underway. Jerry decides an additional battery charger would help so begins the search to find the same one we have so they will be compatible. He finds one through Defender and has it shipped to Dozier's Regatta Yacht Marina in Deltaville, VA, our next stop. I asked April to ship the camera battery charger that was left at their home by accident to the same place. This took care of a couple of our issues.
Jerry got the bikes off the boat. We rode around a little. Mine wouldn't shift and the chain came off easily. Stopped for lunch while we were out then over to the bike shop. Great place and he had it fixed and back to us in a couple of hours.
The divers showed up about 5pm with some major equipment. There are 3 hoses, one for air, one to power a headlamp and the third one has heated water that the diver sticks into his wet suit. The water was 58F. Because it was a quick job, they didn't fire up the heated water so this guy was in and out in nothing flat. That water was COLD. Jerry was really glad he didn't try it.
Jerry is holding the line that was on the prop.Tuesday, winds still aren't looking good so we opt to stay another day. We took advantage of the free pump out and water across the landing. While we were there we washed down the boat.
Jerry put numbers on the new dinghy and also the Wind Song decals since the name on the back of the boat is blocked by the dinghy.
Walked to Artisans Bakery for lunch. What a wonderful find. I had a turkey tartine, Jerry had panini with bean and spinach soup. We split a ricotta filled turnover, yummy!
Our friends from Next to Me, Cathryn and Bob stopped by. They are docked at the other landing. We visited for quite awhile. Great to see them. They are staying for the AGLCA Rendezvous in Norfolk. We may catch each other, though, before doing the Delaware Bay crossing since we're going to stop in DC. It would be good to have a buddy boat.
Jerry pulled the forward holding tank. Lovely job. There seems to be a small leak. Nothing obvious but dampness appears under the tank so need to take care of it.
YUCK! He has configured a pump trying to pressurize the tank then using soap bubbles to try to find the leak. Genius, but no joy. His alternative is to use hot glue to seal around any connections that could potentially leak.Looking at charts to figure out where we go tomorrow.
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